Sam’s Journey
Week 1
The first Saturday session was exciting, exhausting, and overwhelming. Walking into Newlab that first time was like walking into a playground for adults. There was so much to see, so much new information to absorb, and so many new people to meet. Excited not just for the program, but to have the opportunity to return to Brooklyn for the first time in years, I feel immensely grateful. Here goes nothin’!
Week 2
A reflection on culture, belonging, and the summer program so far:
Ever since I was a kid, I remember wishing and wanting to wear high tops of varying styles. Famous musicians who I admired like Joey Ramone, who wore Converse All Stars or “Chucks”, to famous athletes like Michael Jordan, who literally built his own sneaker and sportswear brand, wore high tops. I remember the disappointment I felt when I tried on Chucks for the first time with my AFO, which had a literal mechanical hinge at the ankle, only to realize that although I could make it work, the hinge would eventually wear through the thin, canvas sides of the right shoe. That’s when I realized high tops just wouldn’t work for me. It wasn’t worth having my parents spend the money on a pair of shoes that would quickly get worn out.
As I’ve gotten older, Jordans have become increasingly appealing. Although I’ve never been interested in sports, Jordans became so commonplace among my peers that I became familiar with the aesthetic, which I liked in part because of its sleek lines and contrasting colors. They also seemed to be built more durably than Converse. Unfortunately, while the flexible canvas of Chucks makes those easier for me to put on and take off, the thicker more structured nature of Jordans, while making the sneakers more durable, also makes them harder for me to put on and take off.
The Jordan 1s are symbolic and important because of their cultural significance. They are a shoe I remember wanting to be able to wear since I was a kid. Whether you were into sports or creative endeavors, the Jordan 1s were appealing and the epitome of cool shoes. I guess in that way, they mean fitting in; being included and belonging, which is something I never felt like I did. The high top Nike Flyease make me feel included, but the fact that they’ve become scarce except for resellers hoping to make quick, “easy” money by raising the price above retail value, and that it’s unclear whether Nike will produce more, makes me feel excluded once again. In my research, I’ve even heard of some so-called “sneakerheads”, with no experience or understanding of the supposed target audience of the Flyease, critique its design and claim it dilutes the Jordan brand. This is how style can both remove and add to the stigma of disability. The fact that Nike failed to market the high top Flyease Jordan 1s to disabled people or even include us in their marketing stories only exacerbates the stigma being disabled already comes with. While Nike and the shoes were hailed as innovative technically, to be innovative socially and culturally, Nike needs to not only continue manufacturing this shoe, but to highlight and celebrate the disability community in its marketing. To not do this, and to foster an environment that makes it harder for the people who actually need the shoes to get them, they are just as guilty of othering us and capitalizing off of “inspiration porn” as any other corporation.
Participating in the summer program has been a fantastic opportunity so far. I feel intellectually and creatively stimulated and challenged. I feel empowered and encouraged to practice my self-advocacy skills, learn new assistive technologies, own and communicate my challenges and limitations. I feel heard and seen. I haven’t always had a positive relationship, or even acknowledged, my identity as a disabled person, but OSL is helping me integrate that aspect of myself into the whole of me. For example, I have always been a slow reader. For years, I simply didn’t read. Earlier this year, I decided to challenge myself to read more, and to embrace audiobooks as my method for accomplishing that goal. During the first week of the program, I felt daunted and overwhelmed by the suggested readings, but I wanted to read at least some of them. My teammate, Christine, suggested the text-to-speech app Speechify, which has been powerful. Now that I’ve used it for nearly 2 weeks, I’ve been using it to help me outside of OSL, too.
Week 3
Two key insights
Team Sam had a productive week and learned two key insights that will shape the further development of our shoe.
We met in Manhattan on Sunday, June 23rd to go shoe shopping. After recently acquiring a pair of Nike Air Jordan 1 Hi FlyEase that fits me with my AFO, I decided to wear them both together for the first time on this adventure. With cautious excitement, I stepped out of my apartment and headed for the elevator. As I made my way to the bus stop, I felt an unfamiliar sense of stability underneath me, and as I continued walking, I noticed that taking steps with my right foot felt easier and faster. It felt like the brace or the shoes, or both were giving me momentum. I forgot that this is what it was like to wear the brace! This pep in my step spurred a sense of confidence.
Our first stop was Eneslow Shoes & Orthotics on the Upper East Side. This is where the first key insight was gained. A very friendly and helpful pedorthist, Pedro, took very good care of us. Since the beginning of the project, we’ve been wondering whether the curve, or helix, of my AFO is essential for its function. It would be a lot easier to develop a shoe to accommodate a brace that went up the back of my leg rather than one that wraps around and up the side of it. Pedro informed us that, yes, the helix is essential, as it helps keep my foot pointed straight rather than turning in.
Next, we headed to Fleet Feet, where my feet were scanned with a machine that can measure a number of factors including heel-to-toe length, ball width, arch height, and even pressure distribution.
Our last stop was Foot Locker. I tried on hi-tops like Converse All Stars and non-FlyEase Nike Air Jordan 1s to get a better sense of what elements of these nonadaptive shoes do and don’t work for me.
The following Friday, Christine and Sophia came to visit me at my apartment in the Bronx for a coworking session. Observing me in my home life allowed them to see in a more natural environment than they had previously. I introduced them to my two cats, we filmed some of an interview we will be putting in a video documenting our project, and I took them to my favorite local deli, Liebman’s, which I’ve been eating since I was a kid.
Back at my apartment after lunch, we discovered our second key insight of the week. One of the Jordan FlyEase’s accessibility features is a zipper that allows the back of the shoe to open. While modeling the donning and doffing experience for Sophia and Christine, I put the shoe and my brace on once with the back of the shoe open and a second time while the back of the shoe was closed. We discovered that putting the brace and shoe on with the back closed is significantly easier than putting them on with the back open. The discovery that using one of the hi-top’s accessibility features makes the shoe less accessible to me was fascinating and unexpected.
I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to let my teammates a little deeper into my world. It brought us closer as a team and helped them understand where and how I spend a lot of my time. It allowed me to show them a side of my personality they hadn’t seen before.
Week 4
A reflection on disability, identity, and ownership
I have a confession to make: I’ve been avoiding writing this. Even though I have a lot of thoughts and (strong) feelings about disability and identity, and even though I’ve already shared bits and pieces of my perspective on this with the OSL cohort, it can be very overwhelming to reflect and elaborate on these topics.
I haven’t always owned my disability. Growing up, I was always told that I “can do anything”. I was conditioned to be “normal”, which in hindsight feels like a lot of pretending. I downplayed my very real limitations, which my parents unintentionally modeled for me, to such a degree that the mainstream summer camp I went to for six summers put me in two near death situations by not providing me adequate supports. I resisted assistive technology and shied away from other people with disabilities.
Age and experience are continually transforming me. Technology gave me the confidence and security to begin embracing my disability. On some level, it gave me a lens to incorporate disability into the rest of my identity, and a purpose to use my experiences to help others. I’ve been working with the same therapist since about 2017, when I was in my mid-20s. He periodically reminds me that I used to refer to my “so-called” disability. That feels like such a distant time now. The longer I work in accessibility, the more ownership of and pride I take in my disability. Throughout my life, I’ve often felt, and sometimes still feel, misunderstood and like I don’t fit in. Like I’m not disabled enough to belong in the disabled community and not able enough to belong in nondisabled society. As hard as that is sometimes, I’m learning to accept that it’s ok. I’m learning that the things that make me different are the very things that give me strength and value. Not everyone is going to recognize and appreciate that and that’s their loss. Not everyone is going to like me and I can’t make anyone like me.
One of the challenges I face because of my disability is that some people, despite my physical appearance, don’t visually recognize that I have a disability. The treatment I’ve received from some of these people contributes to insecurity and imposter syndrome that I’m constantly working through to this day. My AFO, or leg brace, provides me a sense of security when I’m out and about in the world. Beyond the physical safety and stability it affords me, it sends a nonverbal cue to any person around me that “hey, this guy is different. He has something going on.” This, in turn, gives me a greater sense of comfort and confidence when asking someone to give me their seat on crowded public transit or even asking for directional assistance in a busy airport or on a busy sidewalk.
At some point before the pandemic, I stopped wearing my AFO. I became frustrated with it after buying a pair of sneakers that fit fine without it, but were extremely difficult to put on with it. So I rejected it. If I recall correctly, I had already been frustrated with putting it on with other shoes I owned that it did fit with, but for some reason, trying to wear it with this particular pair of sneakers pushed me over the edge. I stopped wearing it entirely. I didn’t even think of AFO-compatible shoes, but knowing me, I would have rejected them too. I don’t remember ever wearing shoes that were specifically designed to be AFO-compatible when I wore an AFO as a kid and I’m not even sure they existed. Most of the accessible shoes I’ve become aware of more recently are ugly or unappealing in some other way or ways. I never actively made this choice as a young adult, but I’d rather wear shoes that I like without my leg brace, than wear the leg brace with a select few pairs of shoes that it might fit inside of and be easy to put on. But ultimately, choosing to wear my AFO with stylish sneakers that I like and want to wear boosts my confidence, in part by empowering me to embrace my identity and experiences as a disabled person and by putting my disability on display.
Week 5
Nearing the end and Prototype Reaction
I can’t believe we’re already nearing the end of the summer program. As much as I’m relieved to get my Saturdays back, I’m sad not to have the excuse to see the other fellows and my teammates. Now that I’ve participated in two Open Style Lab programs, OSL feels a bit like family. I’ve spoken to some more than others and I see some more than others, but everyone I’ve spoken to has been super friendly and easy to talk to.
This week, Team Sam’s prototype came together in big ways! My mind was blown when I first saw a photo of it, and seeing it in person took it to a whole other level. Sophia and Christine have been absolutely killing it.
Week 6
Final Reflections from Team Sam
OSL’s summer program has been a deeply powerful and impactful experience. I won’t go into detail, but the past 16 months have been difficult for me. My confidence and self-worth were very nearly depleted at the start of the summer, but working with Sophia, Christine, the rest of the cohort, and OSL’s leadership team has been a brilliant reminder that my voice matters and people do care about what I have to say. The OSL community has played an essential part in reinvigorating my soul and lifting my spirits.
To wrap up this project, I’m delighted to share this platform with the two people I’ve worked most closely with these past six weeks: my teammates Christine Oak and Sophia Luu. In the following paragraphs, you’ll read each of our reflections looking back on a summer of hard and rewarding exploration.
Letters from team innerSoul
From Christine:
It’s been 5 days since OSL’s final exhibit on accessible footwear at NewLab maker space, and I’m still riding the high as I settle into my daily routine as a school-based OT in California. Through the ups and downs emerged a deep sense of fulfillment and gratitude for what our team collectively accomplished. Coming from the clinical and educational realm of a practicing OT, I typically would not have been exposed to all the new skills I’ve developed these past 6 weeks. With the resources offered through OSL and NewLab, I had the opportunity to take an active role in the hands-on making process by learning how to 3D scan and print, teaching myself Figma and various design interfaces, and editing videos and creating a compelling narrative to deliver at the final presentation. I’m especially thankful to my gracious teammates, Sam and Sophia, for giving me the space to explore these newfound skills. With their encouragement, they’ve afforded me the agency to push myself beyond my comfort zone and discover new passions I otherwise would not have known. This was truly a summer of self-exploration, reflection, and innovation. I’ve learned that I can do hard things, and I can do them well with the support of a tribe who has my back and believes in me. Words can’t express how proud I am of this beautiful chapter of my life. When I look back on this summer 5, 10, even 15 years from now, I can confidently say “that was the summer when everything changed for me.” Not many people get those moments in life, and for that, I will be eternally grateful for this experience. I’m immensely proud of my team and I’m reminded of when we first met on that Zoom call week 1. We described our team as having “synergy”, and we were just that. Separate forces joining to create a stronger, more resounding power. We are stronger together. Thank you to everyone who made this summer possible. And thank you to the OSL leadership for seeing me and believing in me. I will cherish the memories and relationships created this summer for a lifetime.
Christine Oak,
OSL OT Fellow, 2024
From Sophia:
While a variety of factors have interested me in accessible fashion design, the most significant factor was my late mother’s cancer diagnosis. Cancer is such a harrowing disease for any human being’s physical, spiritual, and emotional being. It saddened me to see my mom not feeling like herself, and I saw how she felt limited in style options due to her changing body and desire to be comfortable. While some view clothes simply as physical objects for human protection and comfort, as a designer, I feel they have the power to promote a person’s confidence and dignity. Now, how can we make these physical transmitters of such powerful values accessible to all people? Fast forward to Open Style Lab.
The year of 2024 I became a New Yorker and had my first opportunity to apply to the OSL summer program. Fortunately, I was accepted! My excitement could hardly be contained until the start of the program in June. When we made it to our first in-person Saturday meeting, sparks were flying as I was enveloped in the vibrancy of the 2024 OSL cohort, the riveting discussions about disability and inclusive footwear, and the creatively charged environment of NewLab.
When I met Sam for the first time, I remember 1) his thoughtful communication style and 2) his passion for high top sneakers. This man knew what he liked and would wear what felt truest to him, even if it meant putting a prescribed medical device—his ankle-foot orthotic– to the wayside. (Side note to the doctors at Columbia University– I am to blame for withholding Sam’s AFO from him for much of summer 2024. It was for a good reason.) Seeing Sam’s passion for high tops and the difficult donning process he currently undertakes to wear the shoes he likes, a flame started to burn within me. High tops spoke to this lifelong New Yorker’s passion for music and culture. They made him feel like he belonged. However, the status quo of neglecting his AFO was unsustainable. Additionally, spending five sweaty, curse-word-filled minutes wrestling a shoe and AFO (with one hand) was plainly tiring and uncomfortable. These topics became the focus of Team Sam’s summer.
Whether we were 3D scanning feet, learning about Sam’s various roles, testing magnets, or enhancing the powers of my humble home sewing machine to become a leather dominator, everyday brought new learnings. It was the most I had stretched myself for a non-work related project in a long time, and while it was challenging, it was also refreshing. As a designer who is used to getting styles passed to me with little room to question the style’s accessibility, it was invigorating to co-design with Sam and our occupational therapist teammate, Christine.
On our final Saturday of the program, I gave Sam the final prototype to try on. He slipped his AFO in, then his foot, slapped the magnets closed, then strapped down the eyelet stay. This time, there was no sweat and only joyful curse-words. Seeing our hard work come together at that moment was so worth it, and it made me reflect on what could be possible for the future of inclusive design if more time, resources, and interdisciplinary experts came together. Advocating for human rights and dignity can take many forms and sometimes, it can even be the form of a high-top. Thanks Open Style Lab for showing what style can do to improve lives.
Sophia Luu,*
OSL Design Fellow, 2024
From Sam:
What a rewarding, validating, and empowering experience this has been! And what a great way to cap off Disability Pride Month too! My shoe, innerSoul, came out better than I could have ever imagined. I am so thrilled with the final result. It felt SO GOOD to share this project with everyone at the final exhibition. It felt good to be on that stage and I was surprised that I wasn’t nearly as nervous as I expected to be. The people of OSL see me in a way that many other people haven’t, and my teammates, Sophia and Christine, gave me more agency and ownership than I’ve ever felt before in any disability inclusion and accessibility project I’ve been a part of. To have been given the safe space to push myself and be pushed by others in ways that have helped, and will continue to help me grow, is profoundly meaningful.
It was an honor to be selected to be a part of the panel discussion after the presentations. I often question whether my perspectives have worth in disability inclusion conversations, but that was a huge reminder that, yes, they do. This is hugely validating. It’s an experience that I will refer back to when the self-doubt, insecurity, and imposter syndrome creep in.
The final exhibition felt like a culmination. A celebration full of ecstatic energy. Being on that stage was exhilarating and powerful. I was cool-headed, calm, and confident. I know I worked for it, having practiced for at least 90 minutes by myself, but I still didn’t expect that rush of positive energy. I am so deeply grateful to Christine, Sophia, Tiffany, Yasmin, Rebekah, and Michael, as well as Newlab staff Dan, Mara, and Nico. They were all instrumental in making this happen. I’m immensely proud of the work we’ve done.
If I had to describe OSL in one word, I’d say “community.” Thankfully, though, I don’t.
Sam Berman,
OSL Disabled Expert Fellow, 2024